INVISIBLE BORDERS
Counter-Atlas of the Road
Marrakesh → Lagos · 2026
INVISIBLE
BORDERS
COUNTER-ATLAS · MRK – LOS · EST. 2026
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Field atlas
Estimated route mapmap
Eighteen estimated stops, nine countries, Marrakesh to Lagos.
Follow the roadlive
Live progress and published dispatches, for anyone following the road.
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Live air quality, dust, UV, daylight, moon and country facts per chapter.
Welcomestart
What this prototype is and how to use it.
Field lognotes
Daily observations, refusals and corrections.
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Photographs, sound recordings and route fragments.
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Draft writing from the road.
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Published photographs from the route.
Blogwords
Field dispatches and road writing.
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Voice recordings and ambient field audio.
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Brief
Premise and intent of the Counter-Atlas.
Five registers
Capture, counter-cartography, care, listening, assembly.
Lineage
A genealogy of counter-cartographic practice.
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Vocabulary, sources and field rules.
Route chapters
Morocco
01Marrakesh02Essaouira03Agadir04Tan-Tan05Laayoune06Dakhla
Mauritania
07Nouadhibou08Nouakchott
Senegal
09Saint-Louis10Dakar11Tambacounda
Mali
12Bamako
Burkina Faso
13Ouagadougou
Ghana
14Kumasi15Accra
Togo
16Lomé
Benin
17Cotonou
Nigeria
18Lagos
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Gerardo Ezequiel
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Chapter 09 · Senegal

09
INHERITANCE→PRESENCE

Saint-Louis

(Island city, river mouth, colonial facades)

29 OctSenegal · after the Rosso crossinglive

A colonial capital and a fishing city at once. Which present do we record?

For whom? · By whom? · Under what care?


Field conditions · liveFull reading →

Reading conditions…

Capture · By whom?

Record one detail that resists turning the city into a museum.

Sound note · 15 s

Record one detail that resists turning the city into a museum.

Sign in to contribute

The ◉ photo button records a fragment. Voice and note record the field decision around it.

What kind of trace is this? · 0 answers
anonymous

Tap the reading that matches this chapter. The thermometer shows how different field lenses read the route.

PhotoWritingFilmResearchPublic artTransdisciplinary

Provocation

Which histories travel with this island even when the road does not name them?

Field log

Photograph one facade and one working scene, and note the distance between the two.

Route scaffolds: images and sound seeds↓

These are route scaffolds, not confirmed stops. Each point holds a Wikimedia image slot, a Freesound query and a blog prompt so the road can replace the estimate with lived material.

Read the field method↓
Status
Estimated stop
Country
Senegal
Leg
300 km, incl. Rosso
Practice
Layered history

River mouth

CROSSINGSports, roads, borders, coastal urban systemsLayer relation onto the corridor

Island, bridge and the colonial grid


Saint-Louis sits on an island at the mouth of the Senegal River, a former colonial capital with a dense fishing quarter at Guet Ndar. Its layered history is present in every facade and bridge.

What success looks like

A strong fragment reads the colonial inheritance and the living fishing city together, without freezing the place into heritage.

For whom?

Who lives inside the heritage frame, and on what terms?

By whom?

Record one detail that resists turning the city into a museum.

“Heritage is also a living, working present.”
Counter-Atlas note
“Name the history beside the image, not instead of it.”
Field rule · this prototype